Saint Laurent SS27: It’s Always More Than a Feeling
Saint Laurent took the world by storm — or rather, by cloud — with the unveiling of its SS27 collection.
At Saint Laurent’s SS27 show, an installation by Japanese artist Fujiko Nakaya, was the focal point that transformed the Rotunda at Bourse de Commerce into an ethereal fogscape.
Seated in the front row were Madonna, Charli XCX, Austin Butler, Jaafar Jackson and Connor Storrie, each bringing their own brand of effortlessly cool to the show. It was a fitting audience for a collection built around Saint Laurent’s subtle rockstar energy.
Across 40 looks, creative director Anthony Vaccarello showed that less can be more, stripping away excess in favour of impeccable proportions and sharp tailoring. Every look felt intentional, proving that sometimes what is left unsaid can be just as powerful as what is on display.
Models emerged through the clouds in wide-shouldered blazers, softened by fluid fabrics. Skin-like V-neck knits hugged the body, while reissued nylon jackets were tucked into narrow, high-waisted trousers. If there is one thing Vaccarello will do, it is create a striking silhouette. Rather than relying on ornamentation, movement and tailoring did the talking, almost giving each look the attitude of a Mick Jagger song.
That same restraint extended to one of the collection’s most talked-about pieces: a transparent dress shoe that had us doing a double take — and, to be transparent, it rocks. Turning a menswear staple into something almost invisible felt quintessentially Saint Laurent — equal parts refined and thought-provoking. It continues to challenge expectations, sitting comfortably in that space between elegance and sensuality that Vaccarello has explored over recent seasons.
For the finale, Vaccarello saved his pot of gold, closing the show with head-to-toe gold looks. Saint Laurent proved that “restraint” can be just as captivating. Through impeccable tailoring, Vaccarello reminded us that sometimes, less really does say more.
